Avoid looking like a lumpy blanket with these pro layering techniques.
In theory, layering seems easy — you just wear clothes on top of other clothes, right?
Unfortunately, it’s not so simple. If you don’t layer the right way, you’ll have a bulky, lumpy, and/or puffy silhouette that won’t look good no matter what your body type is (but it’ll be especially unflattering if you’re a bigger guy) or what you’re wearing.
But avoiding bulk when layering is surprisingly easy to avoid. You just have to know a few layering fundamentals.
I’m speaking from experience — there was a long time when I didn’t fully understand how to layer. Here’s a comparison of two layered outfits I put together, one that’s way too bulky and one that’s nicely fitted:
I think I’ve proven my point that a little layering knowledge goes a long way.
Here are my top four tips for layering effectively and keeping bulk to a minimum.
4 Tips to Layer Without Looking Bulky
Layering isn’t all that difficult, but it’s also not completely natural. Some of these tips are things you’d eventually figure out through sheer trial and error, but others are concepts that you might have never thought about before. That’s what makes layering so tricky.
These four tips are simple and easy to put into practice right away, so internalize them and get to creating some awesome layered outfits.
#1: Learn the Four Rules of Layering
If you haven’t already learned the basics of fall and winter layers, this is a perfect opportunity. In short, there are four guidelines to live by when layering an outfit:
1. Don’t wear more than three visible layers. In most cases, wearing more than three layers will be noticeably bulky. This doesn’t count as a hidden undershirt or T-shirt.
2. Start with thinner fabrics on the inside. Your first visible layer should be the thinnest, and your third visible layer should be the heaviest.
3. Each layer should work on its own. If one layer looks awkward by itself, chances are your whole outfit will be a bit off.
4. Try going from lighter to darker. Generally, it looks better to have a lighter color for your first layer and darker colors for subsequent layers. (However, this rule can often be broken — it’s more of a starting point).
#1 and #2 are particularly crucial for avoiding bulk on a foundational level. If you keep your layers to a minimum and go from thinner to thicker, you’ll have minimal bulk to tame.
#2: Get the Size and Fit Right
Clothes don’t have to be extremely baggy to fit poorly. If your clothes don’t fit your height, weight, and proportions, they simply won’t look good when layered.
For example, if you’ve got a shirt that’s too big, you might not notice when you’re wearing it by itself. But put that shirt underneath a heavier jacket, and it’ll likely pile and clump in all the wrong places — especially if the jacket does fit you.
However, it’s okay if your outer layers are slightly larger than your inner layers. Outer layers still shouldn’t be oversized, but they should have just enough room to accommodate the layers that will go underneath them. (Pro tip: If you can’t button up an outer layer, it’s too small).
#3: Consider the Fabrics
By now, you’re already thinking about fabric weight (i.e., thickness), but you also need to consider how different fabrics behave and drape.
You already know that thinner fabrics should be closer to your body, but that’s also true for less structured and/or more drapey fabrics. The clingier something is, the closer to your body it should be.
Generally, there’s a proportional relationship between weight and drape — that is, most fabrics will cling less as they become thicker. But this isn’t always the case, so it’s important to understand your materials just as much as you understand their size and fit.
#4: Know When You Actually Need Some Bulk
Avoiding bulk when layering is a fantastic goal, but sometimes it’s impractical to do so. While it’s fine to aim for a good-looking outfit, you can’t let that get in the way of your own comfort (or even health!).
If it’s the middle of winter and you need to be outside in the snow for long periods, you’re probably better off wearing a big insulated coat instead of a sleeker option that doesn’t keep you as warm.
Of course, there are some exceptions, but the moral of the story is that sometimes you actually want a little bit of bulk to keep that heat in.
Master Your Layers
Though it might seem unintuitive to say it this way, layering takes practice. Developing an eye for layered outfits requires mastering each part — garment type, fabric properties, practical requirements — and that takes time.
Thankfully, it’s easy to practice layering. Spend some time standing in front of a full-length mirror and trying on different combinations of clothing. It might even help you to try some bad layering by blatantly ignoring the guidelines I set out in this article; that way, you can see for yourself why those guidelines exist!
And don’t forget that layering is just one tool in your style toolbox. You can’t build a house with just one tool, and the same goes for outfits. In other words, the more familiar you are with important style principles like fit and color coordination, the easier it’ll be for you to create great outfits.
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