Wondering how to wear chinos? This in-depth guide contains everything you need to know about these insanely versatile pants.
If you could only own one pair of pants, chinos would be a smart choice. From casual summer get-ups to business casual winter fits, they do it all. But would you be shocked to know that not everyone knows how to wear chinos?
Fashion experts once deemed chino pants as a casual staple. Since then, they’ve evolved into a versatile and stylish wardrobe that is essential. You can wear them in a business casual work environment, take them from desk to dusk for happy hour, or wear them on the weekends. Truly, chinos offer endless possibilities.
Needless to say, for many, chinos are the perfect ‘in-between’ pants. They’re not too dressy and not too casual. In this guide, we’ll cover what chinos are, what they’re not, and how to wear them in various situations.
What Are Chino Pants?
A chino is a pair of trousers made from cotton twill fabric. Today, chinos come in a range of cuts and sizes. But they typically contain these characteristics:
- A flat front (no pleats)
- Concealed or non-contrast stitching
- Slanted (not on-seam) pockets in front
- Jetted back pockets (with or without a button)
- A zippered fly
- Belt loops instead of side tabs
Fabric is also a pretty wide range. Historically, 100% cotton was the way to go. The heavy twill took some time to break in, and they weren’t especially comfortable being out of the box. But, consumer preferences changed, and patience is wearing thin. People want comfort now! As a result, chinos are now available with degrees of synthetics woven in. Colloquially, they’re known as ‘performance’ chinos. But, in reality, they’re basically stretch pants.
When we think of chinos, we typically think of a light khaki pair, but they come in a multitude of colors. You can buy them in neutrals like black, grey, navy, or shades of brown. Or, you can add a dash of color to your closet with brightly-hued chino pants.
Where Do Chinos Come From? A Brief History
Like many modern articles of clothing, chinos have a military heritage. The original fabric was developed for American soldiers during the Spanish-American War in the late 19th century. Troops needed a durable fabric that could withstand the rigors of battle and camp life. It needed to be thick, of course, as war takes a serious toll on clothing. But it also needed to protect the body from the mosquitos!
The original chino fabric was designed with Chinese twill. “Chino” is the Spanish word for “Chinese.” The name became the fabric and the style.
Khaki Pants vs Chinos
“Khakis” and “Chinos” used to be two different styles of pants. But both have Eastern roots and were popularized by Western military forces. The word “khaki” actually describes the light tan color British General Sir Harry Lumsden developed while stationed in India in the 1840s. Lumsden believed the crisp white uniforms were spotted too easily by enemy snipers. So, he started dying the kits as a form of camouflage in a dusty environment. Another slight distinction between ‘khaki’ and ‘chino’ is the original purpose of the garment. A ‘khaki’ might be more rugged and military-inspired; a ‘chino’ is more refined.
A paradigm shift in how to wear chino pants occurred with the advent of ‘business casual’ and Levi’s ‘Dockers’ sub-brand. For, quite literally, generations, men had essentially two options- formal trousers for work and then anything else. Mainly jeans. The pants Dockers rolled out in the mid-1980s combined the two. Free-flowing and full-cut, these were comfortable to wear sitting for long hours at a desk. But they were durable enough to handle weekend outings with the kids. They came primarily in the now ubiquitous khaki colorway. So, they revived the term ‘khakis.’
Today, though, the words are pretty interchangeable. Khaki refers primarily to a color, and chino to a fabric. But most still understand both “I’m wearing khaki chinos” and “I’m wearing navy chinos.”
Chinos vs Dress Pants
Chinos are more casual pants. More formal pants are usually made of wool or a wool blend. They’re softer and finer than chinos. They also hold a much better crease. Not that you can’t crease chinos with an iron, but it does look a bit weird if the lines are ultrasharp. These factors make them dressier than a pair of chinos.
Avoid chinos on formal occasions, but it’s possible to dress them up for informal business meetings. The classic preppy aesthetic look might be a navy blazer with gold buttons and chinos. There’s nothing inherently wrong with the look. But, it is a bit of a contradiction in formalities. If you’re going to do chinos and a jacket, try one with patch pockets and a softer, less structured shoulder. Hopsack is an excellent fabric for this business casual look. It has a slightly nubby texture that looks good when you get close to it.
Chinos vs Jeans
Chinos and Jeans are two inherently casual, woven twill pants. They come in a whole range of weights, sizes, fits, and styling. But which is better? The answer, of course, is that it depends on the situation. If you’re working in the yard, a pair of jeans is probably the better tool for the job. They’re likely thicker and more durable than chinos, though they’re just as easy to clean.
However, in most situations, chinos are the better choice. While slim, dark denim is a menswear staple, chinos are easier to style with jackets, sweaters, and even a knit tie.
How Chinos Should Fit? A Guide
How should a pair of chinos fit? Trends in chinos seem to mirror trends in other pairs of pants. For the better part of the 2010s, jeans were ‘skinny,’ and chinos appeared to mirror that. Now that, unfortunately, jeans are trending back into baggy territory, chinos are getting quite full again. It’s difficult to pin down a truly ‘timeless’ style. However, going for a slim, but not skinny, fit is a pretty good middle ground. Here are additional guidelines for key fit points.
The Waist
If the waist fits perfectly, you won’t need a belt to hold your pants up. Some chinos actually have a slightly curved waistband built in, which is fantastic for keeping them up if your waist size fluctuates. The waistband of your pants should fit snug but not too tight. If you’re getting a waist gap, your chinos are too big.
Also, consider whether you will wear a belt with your chinos. Some chinos have small belt loops, so you should make sure you can wear your go-to belt with them.
The Hips
Try to avoid too much excess material, which will give you a saggy butt effect. However, make sure you can bend over without tearing a seam. This might take trial and error and be more challenging if you’re particularly big or slim. The best fit allows you to move freely and will give you a little room without feeling restricted.
The Rise
Your chinos’ rise depends on your preference and male body type. However, keep in mind that the pant rise is tough to alter. Be sure your chinos fit well in the seat and crotch before you buy them. Try to avoid super low-rise chinos, as they only flatter men with very long legs.
The Thighs
You want a close fit without feeling any sort of restriction in movement. Think slim to slim straight. Definitely not skin-tight, though. You’re golden if you can pinch a couple of inches of cloth in the thigh. If you like your chinos on the slimmer side, consider a pair with stretch to keep you comfortable as you move through the day.
The Calves
If you can’t put a sock on and pull it all the way up without taking your pants off, they’re probably too tight in the calves. Additionally, it’s too tight if you can see it bunching and hanging around the calf when you stand up. Look for something with less taper. Speaking of taper, a well-fitting pair of chinos will taper slightly from the knee to the ankle, creating the cleanest line.
The Ankle
Contradicting a little of what we just said, guys with slender ankles should wear more taper, especially if you like the no-break look. Bigger guys will look good with less taper below the knee (more of a slim/straight fit).
However, if you like a looser fit in the ankle, choose a one-size bigger fit. For example, if you should wear a slim but prefer a looser fit, opt for a straight fit. This will give you a bit more room without looking like your pants are overwhelming your ankles.
The Length
When it comes to length, it all depends on how much break you want. Just about everyone looks good with a slight break. Shorter men look great with no break at all. If you’re new to men’s fit, a pant break is the distance between the hem of your pants and the top of your shoes. As with most things, your ideal pant break is a combination of your structure and personal style.
How To Wear Chinos With Sneakers
White
Another default option for guys is to wear chinos with boat shoes. This seems to run parallel with East Coast prepsters. The look is okay, but it only really works if you’re on a boat or if you like chino shorts. If not, just wear loafers and enjoy the compliments.
FAQs
Are Chino Pants Business Casual?
Yes, they can be business casual. However, instead of a solid navy blazer, try them with a sports jacket. Additionally, keep the shades neutral—stone, olive or sage green, navy, and charcoal.
Why Do They Call Them Chinos?
The name ‘chino’ comes from the Spanish word for ‘Chinese.’ It was adopted because the original pants were made with Chinese twill fabric.
Are Chino Pants Formal or Casual?
Chino pants are definitely not formal. Don’t wear chinos to formal business meetings, evening events, or anything along those lines. However, they’re a little above true casualwear. They’re nice ‘in-between’ pants.
Conclusion: How To Wear Chinos
We’ve covered a bit of ground in a short space. We’ve discussed what chinos are, where they come from, and how the pants have evolved. We’ve talked about how to wear chinos dressed up and in a casual outfit. We’ve also shown how they should fit and what shoes look good.
Now that we’ve armed you with all this chino knowledge pull on your favorite pair and wear them with your best foot forward!
Thanks for reading!
How do you like to wear your chinos? Let us know in the comments below.
Christian Nørgaard Poulsen says
Is it not in to wear Black chinos?
Just bought a pair from asket
Brock McGoff says
Black chinos are a great choice if they work with the rest of your wardrobe!
Gary Thompson says
Does anyone make button fly chinos?
Walker says
Tellason! They make an incredible pair of chinos.
Steven says
Brock, your dark navy chinos look great. Can I ask what brand/style they are?
Candice says
My partner looks amazing in his Dockers chinos, they go with everything!
Alexander says
Ralph Lauren Polo slim fit chinos are the best! Surprisingly H&M (L.o.g.g) skinny fit chinos has perfect fit and looks great too!
Chuck F says
Would it be acceptable to wear black chinos to a memorial service or funeral?
Brock says
Dress pants would be a better choice for a formal event, if you have them.